Smelt season adds a taste of spring to local menus

This time of year brings out a hardy band of Chicagoans whodress funny, drink a lot and endure the cold near the lakefront. Irefer, of course, to baseball fans. But people who fish for smelt dothose same things every spring, too.

Annually, they flock to the lake for those silver fish that swimand spawn in Lake Michigan for a short span in early spring. Forthose who enjoy this spring treat but don't want to hang out on areapiers, smelts will surface at a few familiar spots.

Smelt-aholics around town know that David's Inn, 520 N. Michigan(337-8218), whips up a mean plateful of fried smelt for $4.25 onFridays, which includes coleslaw and fries. David's is open from …